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Retro Off the Rack: Mod Style

FF-Questions-1960sI am a firm believer that you don’t need to pay vintage store prices to get the vintage look. People always ask me if I buy my clothes from thrift shops and other secondhand sources, but to be honest, I shop at many of the same places that the average American does. Recreating retro style is simply about knowing what to look for, and because fashion is always recycling itself, it’s surprisingly easy to find the trends of yesteryear on the sale racks today. You just have to train your eyes to spot them, and I’m going to show you how to do that.

Since REBEAT is a very ’60s-centric site, let’s try recreating one of the most iconic trends of 1960’s fashion: mod style. There are technically two different types of mod style. The first is the original, sported by working class British youths, and the second is the high fashion version that these kids helped inspire. As the latter is the more famous one, sported by the likes of Patti Boyd and Jean Shrimpton, that’s what we’ll be aiming for today. We’re also going to limit our focus to the female side, although you’ll see that men’s fashion did have an influence on what the ladies wore. First, let’s break down each aspect of mod style, piece by piece, so that we know what to look out for.

Influences

Although it was, in many ways, the antithesis of 1950s fashion, mod style was still very in-tune with the mid-century modern aesthetic, defined by deep colors, geometric shapes, and clean lines. The goal was to create a bold new look that set the younger generation apart and made a statement. One way designers did this was by taking influences from unconventional sources, like the Roaring ’20s, menswear, children’s clothing, and modern art.

Menswear

Considering the ’20s were also a decade of widespread social change, it only makes sense that ’60s designers were inspired by the daring trends of the groundbreaking era. Many mod pieces were fitted for the slight, flat-chested figure, also popular in the ’20s, which stood in stark contrast to the curvier, traditionally feminine silhouette of the ’50s. And just as hemlines infamously rose in the ’20s, they did so again four decades later, when Mary Quant pioneered the mini skirt.

Further playing off the boyish body type, mod fashion incorporated many menswear-inspired aspects, such as military jackets, neck ties, men’s button-down shirts, ruffled 18th century collars, and suit vests. However, these aspects would often be given a feminine twist, as they were produced in bright colors and paired with skirts and tights.

How to do it: When you’re shopping for your mod outfit, look for peacoats and other double breasted, military-inspired jackets. You can even get a white button down blouse and pair it with a bold tie from the men’s section.

Children’s fashion

Since the mod look was defined by big eyes and small, androgynous figures, these traits went quite well with childlike touches like big bows, tights, knee-high socks, jumpers/pinafores, schoolgirl dresses, and especially Peter Pan collars. Unique collars were a big part of the trend and also included pointed flat collars, bows, turtlenecks, and other high-necked styles.

How to do it: Fortunately for modern mods, Peter Pan-collared dresses and bow-necked blouses are quite trendy at the the moment. Check out any fast fashion retailer, like Forever 21 and H&M, for pieces with these details.

Modern art

Mod fashion was very much an art form, in that it displayed unusual patterns, designs, materials, and proportions that reflected the current popularity of op art, pop art, and futuristic mid-century design. Just as modern artists were pushing boundaries in the art world, mod designers were using their creativity to change the face of the fashion world.

How to do it: Although outlandish designs like these (especially paper dresses) are quite a bit harder to come by these days, you can find some pop art and op-art inspired leggings from online retailers that would go great underneath a solid colored shift dress. And, of course, you can always keep an eye out for unique prints and silhouettes.

Colors and patterns

Mod fashion would be nothing without deep, vibrant hues and contrasting colors. These were then combined with geometric shapes, spots, stripes, checks, chevrons, color blocking, and really any other pattern that screamed, “Look at me!” On the other end, black and white contrast was very big and could be used in most any form, from simple color blocking to complex patterns. Brightly colored tights were also growing in popularity and perfectly offset the boxy shifts they were frequently worn with.

How to do it: While these outfits may seem a little too crazy to find in your local department store , you might be surprised by just how many pieces you can find with dots, wide stripes, and particularly color blocking, which has experienced a resurgence in popularity in recent years. Moreover, tights are available in a wide variety of hues and patterns nowadays, so even if you can only acquire a solid-colored dress, you can still add instant mod style to it with a vibrant pair of tights.

Shape

As mentioned before, a slim figure was of great advantage to anyone hoping to achieving the mod look.  Shifts and tent/trapeze dresses were the order of the day, as were mini skirts and oversized coats. This caused the mod silhouette to be very A-shaped, gradually flaring out from the neck down to the knee (or higher!).

How to do it: Don’t worry! You don’t need to be super skinny to look authentically mod. Try a more fitted shift with a wide belt, or tuck a button-down top into a mini skirt. Simply take the aspects of the style that you like most and cater them to your body. You can still achieve the signature silhouette regardless of your body type, as long as your skirt flares out in the classic A-shape.

Makeup

It’s all about the eyes! The mods actually borrowed their famous cat eyes from the previous decade (winged liner was quite popular in the ’50s) and simply amped them up with defined creases, heavy eyeshadow, and plenty of false lashes. The rest of the face was usually kept very muted with a pale, flawless complexion and light pink or nude lipstick to leave the focus on the eyes and make them appear larger.

How to do it: While dramatic eyeliner and shadow can take some practice, once you’ve got them down, all you really need to do is neutralize everything else with plenty of concealer and foundation. You can let your creativity run wild with eyeliner, or just opt for a simple cat eye with a light blue, green, or white base. Eye shadow should always be matte, as sparkly, shimmery shadows were not on the market yet, and lipstick works better in soft, subtle shades so it won’t compete with your eyes. Feel free to add some very light, natural blush, as well.

Hair

Taking another tip from the ’20s, many mods embraced the bob, with lengths ranging from Twiggy’s signature pixie cut to Sylvie Vartan’s chin-length style, seen below. Long, straight hair, however, was also very popular and frequently worn with bangs/fringe. Without flat irons at their disposal, many girls would simply straighten their hair on an ironing board, the same way they ironed their clothes!

During this time, casual, natural hairstyles were starting to become more common, in contrast to the perfectly coiffed curls, rolls, bumps, beehives, and other labor intensive ‘dos of previous eras. Although, teasing was still used to add volume.

How to do it: While you can pull off a mod look with many different hair types and styles, straight hair is the more traditional way to go. So if you don’t have naturally straight locks, the modern flat iron is about to become your new best friend! Although I suppose you could do it the old fashioned way in a pinch. As long as you don’t accidentally scorch your nose, nobody will know the difference!

Shoes

Footwear and accessories were essential pieces of mod style that further enhanced its quirky qualities. Shoes such as Mary Janes, square-heeled slingbacks, and go-go boots helped to feminize the somewhat androgynous look. Even traditionally drab loafers and oxfords were produced in fun colors with a higher heel.

shoeimg-thing
How to do it: Brightly pigmented Mary Janes, low pumps, heeled oxfords, and slingbacks are pretty easy to acquire these days. But if you want to go the boot route and aren’t interested in the go-go’s from the Halloween store, try some black or white Chelsea boots with a short heel.

Accessories

Mod jewelry and other add-ons were often statements in themselves. Popular accessories included headbands, wide belts with round buckles, chain-link belts, large, geometric earrings, and oversized round or square sunglasses.

How to do it: Oversized sunglasses are available at any given dollar store right now, so grab them while you can. Retro styles are also en vogue and can be found at trendier shops like Francesca’s and Target. You’ll also be surprised by the wide variety of funky earrings, necklaces, and bracelets you can find at the average costume jewelry shop or mid-price department store. Look for dangle earrings with ovals, circles, tear drops, and other defined shapes, as well as necklaces and bracelets with big, colorful plastic beads. Also, if you don’t mind cheating our “all new pieces” stipulation a little bit, Goodwill and other secondhand stores are filled with dirt cheap ’80s jewelry that imitates the ’60s aesthetic.

The outfit

Now that we have all the rules in place, let’s put them to use! Here is an outfit that I assembled entirely of 21st century pieces purchased at mass-market retailers.

Colors: As you can see, I went with the classic black-and-white contrast look. If you’re struggling to find something in a distinctly mod print, you can’t go wrong with black and white. Stripes and polka dots often come in these and many other colors and are constantly in style. But if all else fails, you should be able to find a plain white blouse and an a-line miniskirt to go with it.

Top (Kohl’s): Peter Pan collar and bow, all in one! I love the little embroidery along the collar and how it evokes the cute, youthful quality that the mod gals embodied. Sleeveless tops like this were also a staple of mod clothing, and if you can find a mockneck one, that’s even better!

Belt (Kohl’s): Although I don’t think the outfit needs it, I added a circle chain-link belt to demonstrate how a belt can be used to tie a blouse and mini skirt combo together. I just as easily could have gone without it for this particular ensemble though.

Skirt (Kohl’s): I love this skirt because it seems to have stripes and color blocking going on at the same time. Skirts with wide, horizontal stripes are fairly easy to find, but solid ones work just as well. Wear one with a sleeveless top, and the base of your outfit is set!

Tights (J.C. Penney): Tights are great for the mod on a budget, as they’re usually pretty cheap and easy to find in many colors. White ones would have worked well here too, since white semi-sheer tights were rather popular among the mods.

Shoes (Zappos): Mary Janes help to create a totally classic mod look, especially when paired with tights. The kitten heels are a nice touch as well.

Earrings (Target): I found these super cool geometric flower studs in the clearance section at Target and in multiple color schemes! But black and white goes with everything, especially if you’re wearing an otherwise very busy mod outfit.

Hair and makeup (drugstore makeup): I already have bangs and naturally straight hair, so I was set in that department. But I feel like the elaborate mod model makeup is a bit too much for everyday, so I just went with a winged cat eye and neutral brown shadow. After that, I put on plenty of foundation, applied Pink Pout lipstick from Revlon, and the look became complete!

 

Thanks for taking this trip through fashion history with me! Now it’s time to hit the swingin’ streets of London!

 

If you’re interested in seeing even more retro-inspired style, please check out The Retro Wardrobe. And if you’d like REBEAT to recreate a different look of yesteryear for “Retro Off the Rack,” please let us know in the comments below!

Gretchen Unico
Gretchen Unico is a 20th century pop culture fanatic with a background in radio, currently working at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, Ohio. Her favorite decades are the '60s and '70s, but she digs all history and just about every type of music. Whenever possible, she enjoys curating her vintage wardrobe, going to retro dance parties, and collecting records. Her stretch goal is to become the Cass Elliot of Cleveland.